15 "Hanten" Japanese vintage kimono 　古布　印半てん　藍染

"Hanten" is a typical Japanese work clothes that has been used since the Edo period.

It was worn by manual workers such as craftsmen and sales staff, and was a worker's uniform.
The shop name and store name were always dyed on the "hanten" so that you could tell where you belonged.
We call them "Sirusi Hanten".
When I wore it, I could easily tell which store the person was from, so it seemed to be a substitute for a store's business card.

"Hanten" was originally born as a copy of "happy coat".
The "happy coat" was made as a simplified version of "haori".
From this background, it seems that "hanten" was also called "tight haori".

Also, "happy coat" and "hanten" are often confused because they have many similarities.
There are some differences in the structure and the way of wearing, such as the difference in length and the "happy coat" is worn with the collar turned back, but the "hanten" is not worn with the collar turned back.
Due to the law prohibiting haori in the Edo period, the common people began to wear "happy coats" instead of "haori" and "happy coats" that return the collar.
It was called "Sirusi hanten" and took root in the lives of the people of Edo.


"半纏"は江戸時代から愛用されてきた日本の代表的な仕事着です。
職人・販売員などの肉体労働者が着用しており、労働者の制服でした。
"半纏"には必ずどこの所属であるか分かるよう屋号や商店名が染め付けられていました。
それらを"印半纏"と呼んでいます。
それを着ていると、どこの商店の者かすぐにわかるので、商店の名刺代わりとなっていたようです。

"半纏"はもともと"法被"のコピーとして生まれたもの。
その"法被"は、"羽織"の簡易版として作られたものです。
この経緯から"半纏"を「窮屈羽織」とも呼んだそうです。

また、"法被"と"半纏"は類似点が多いため混同されることが少なくありません。
長さの違いや「法被」は衿を返して着るが「半纏」は襟を返さないなど、作りの構造や着方にも少し違いがあります。
江戸時代に羽織禁止令が出たため、庶民は衿を返す"羽織"や"法被"の代わりに、衿を返さないで着用する"法被"を着るようになりました。
それは"印半纏"と呼ばれ、江戸の人々の生活に根付いていきました。